Calheta Beach

The sand is not Madeira's own, and where it came from turned into a political question. It was taken from Western Sahara, a territory occupied by Morocco since 1975, and because its people were never consulted about their own resources, the imports are treated as a breach of international law. The last confirmed shipment reached Calheta in 2010.

What is left on the ground is a crescent of golden sand with the village at its back and boats moored a stone's throw away. The water is calm and easy to walk into. The hill above the village is a 20-minute walk and climb, and from up there the sand, the breakwater and the marina sit in one frame — the shot everyone takes from the promenade instead.

• Loungers: sun loungers and umbrellas are hired on the sand and cost little; swimming and water sports are run from the beach.
• Toilets and water: free public toilets stand about 100 m from the sand, and the Fonte Largo da Vila drinking fountain is roughly 200 m away.
• Food: cafés and restaurants line the front, and the café at the west end is cheap and good.
• No information office: there is no tourist information point anywhere near the beach.

The beach sits in the middle of Calheta, hard against the marina, so there is no approach to speak of: you leave the car in the village and walk through to the promenade, and the sand starts there.

Parking is the awkward part. Both car parks near the sand charge, the street bays charge too, and finding a space can be difficult — allow time for circling before you give up on the closest options. Arriving by bus leaves you in the village centre, a few hundred metres back from the water.

Best: the end of summer, around August, when the ocean has warmed enough for a long swim.

Avoid: April, when air temperatures sit around 20°C and the water is more endurance than pleasure.

Late afternoon is the quieter part of the day, at least in May. In July the beach was busy — it is small, and it fills.