Paúl do Mar waterfall

The waterfall falls inside Paúl do Mar itself, a fishing village on the west coast of Madeira, and not out on a trail. Ducks swim at its foot. Few people come this way: the village lies below a long descent from the plateau, off the main circuit round the island.

Walkers arrive from above. PR19, the Caminho Real do Paúl do Mar, drops from Prazeres to the harbour. It is one of the old municipal paths that were the only access to villages like this before the roads came. Hauling goods over it was cheaper than bringing them in by sea, and in winter the sea was rough and dangerous. Jardim do Mar and Paúl do Mar stay in sight along the way, with more waterfalls on the slopes.

• Toilets and water: public toilets stand about 80 m from the waterfall, and a drinking water point about 160 m.
• Finding it: the route in confuses people. PR19 information boards stand about 100 m away.
• Walk PR19 downhill: start at Prazeres and descend to the village. In the other direction it is a steep climb.
• Quiet: the village sits off the main routes round the island, and few people are at the waterfall.

The road runs right down into Paúl do Mar, so nothing long is left on foot. Cars stop at the car parks by the shore and the rest is walked. Walkers arrive the other way round. PR19 comes down from Prazeres and ends at Paúl do Mar Harbour, in the village itself, which makes the waterfall a natural finish to the descent.

Better: January, if you want company on the path — the Madeira Walking Festival opens on the Caminho Real do Paúl do Mar, and PR19 is its first route of the year.

Avoid: those same January days, if you came for quiet. Outside the festival the village is off the main routes round the island and few people are about, so the waterfall stays calm through the rest of the year.