Formentor Lighthouse

Goats pick their way along the verges, cyclists grind up the bends, and then the road runs out. The lighthouse sits on high cliffs at the very tip of Cap de Formentor, with nothing beyond it but sea. Its lamp shines 210 metres above sea level, higher than any other lighthouse in the Balearic Islands, and it is still in service.

From beside the lighthouse the view runs back along the jagged spine of the peninsula and out over the Canal de Menorca, the strait explained on an information board by the lighthouse; on a clear day Menorca shows on the horizon. Evening is the draw, when the headland fills with people waiting for the sunset.

The drive out is half the point. Viewpoints break the road on the way, and the Es Colomer viewpoint (Mirador des Colomer) is worth a stop in its own right.

• From mid-May to mid-September the road beyond Cala de Formentor is closed to private cars; take the bus, or park at the beach and ride the shuttle.
• The car park by the lighthouse holds about 15 to 20 cars. Even on a sunny March afternoon there is a wait for a space.
• The stretch before Cala de Formentor is the steepest and narrowest, with buses and cars squeezing past each other. It suits confident drivers.
• Free toilets stand beside the lighthouse, and there is a café. There is no public drinking-water tap, so bring water.
• The headland is bare and exposed: no shade at midday, and wind off the sea. Bring a hat and a layer.

A bus runs all the way out to the lighthouse and stops about 45 m from it. The simplest way to come is to leave the car in Port de Pollença or in the centre of Alcúdia, where parking is plentiful, and ride the bus from there.

From mid-May to mid-September private cars go no further than Cala de Formentor, the beach on the way out. Its car park is limited and fills fast; a shuttle bus covers the rest of the road. If you drive in those months, arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

Outside the restricted months you can drive to the free car park about 40 m from the lighthouse, and walk the last stretch on asphalt. The road is long, narrow and full of bends, and busy with cyclists. The steepest part comes before Cala de Formentor, where buses and cars meet head-on. Keep your eyes on the road and save the scenery for the viewpoints.

Best: early morning, or late afternoon into sunset.

Avoid: the middle of the day, especially from spring into autumn.

The car park at the lighthouse and the one at Cala de Formentor fill through the day, the bare headland has no shade at midday, and if you come by bus for the sunset, check the last departure back before you set out.