Garganta Funda Viewpoint

The lookout stands on the rim of a gorge cut deep into the cliffs of Madeira's west coast. Across the gap a waterfall drops down the rock face towards the sea, with the Atlantic filling the background. Scale does the work here. Even when the water thins out in the dry months, the walls of the ravine are reason enough to stop. Move to the left of the lookout for the fuller view of the fall. Cattle graze loose on these slopes, so meeting a cow on the way in is part of the visit.

• No toilets. There are none at the viewpoint, so sort that out before you set off.
• The waterfall shrinks in the dry months. The gorge and the cliff walls are the constant; the volume of water is not.
• The last stretch of road is gravel. Ordinary rental cars cope with it, but drive slowly and patiently.
• Go left at the lookout. The left-hand side gives the fuller view of the fall and of the gorge below it.

The approach is by car. The last stretch of road is gravel and asks for slow, patient driving, and ordinary rental cars handle it. Park on the gravel area beside the road, leave the car and walk the rest: a short, easy walk brings you out on the cliff above the gorge. That cliff is as close to the waterfall as anyone gets.

Better: after a spell of rain, when the waterfall runs at full volume.

Avoid: the dry months, if the fall itself is what you came for — it carries much less water then.

The cliffs and the ocean view hold up whatever the water is doing, so a dry spell is no reason to skip the stop. Wind decides how long you stay: on a gusty day nobody lingers near the edge.