Prainha do Caniçal Beach

The sand is black and fine — volcanic, not the imported golden sand of Madeira's built beaches. The bay is sheltered and the water is clear, and people snorkel straight off the shore. Rocks close both ends of the beach. Crabs work the wet stones, and Madeiran wall lizards bask on the dry ones and come close to anyone sitting still. The rocky side is also where the shade is. At the top of the walk up from the sand there is an open spot with a view over the bay, used for picnics. Around it all is the dry eastern end of Madeira: bare brown hills, no forest, hard light.

• Parking runs out — Only two car parks serve the beach, and spaces are limited.
• The climb back — The walk down to the sand is easy. The climb back up is the tiring part, so carry less than you think you need.
• Toilets — The nearest are about 40 m from the sand and charge a fee. A free block sits about 470 m away.
• No drinking water — There is no drinking water point at the beach. Bring what you plan to drink.
• Beach bar on site — It serves food and hires out sunbeds and umbrellas.

Almost everyone drives. The car parks sit above the beach, and the last stretch is on foot, down to the sand. Going down is easy. The climb back up is the part people remember, so think about what you carry down with you. A bus stop is close enough to walk from as well, and the walk in from it is the same descent.

Better: arrive before the car parks fill. Parking is the limit on this beach, not the sand.

Avoid: a wet day. The point of the place is the water and the warm rock, and there is nothing else to do here in the rain.

The beach is open around the clock. The rocky ends hold shade that the open sand does not, and that is where the crabs and lizards are.