Vereda do Larano

At Boca do Risco the ridge breaks open and the north coast of Madeira appears all at once: cliffs falling into the Atlantic, and the path running on along the slope ahead. From there the trail clings to the cliff face, climbing and dropping the whole way, with the sea below on one side. Parts of it lie in shade through the day, so the walk stays cooler than an exposed coast path usually does. On the way the route also passes through a neighbourhood of houses and local shops, a stretch of everyday island life between the wild sections.

• Nothing marks the start. From where you park, follow the road on foot until it brings you to Boca do Risco.
• No toilets or drinking water nearby. Bring enough water and snacks for the constant climbs and descents.
• Wear hiking shoes or other footwear with grippy soles; some sections need close attention.
• The route is linear and ends in Porto da Cruz. With a car left in Machico, plan on a taxi back.
• The climb up Boca do Risco itself is hard going, and vegetation hides any view from the top.

The walk starts on the Machico side. You can drive part of the way up and leave the car there, or set out on foot from lower down. Nothing marks where to begin: from the parking point, walk along the road and it brings you to Boca do Risco, where the cliff path carries on along the coast. The nearest car park is about 3 km away in a straight line, and the nearest public transport stop about 2.5 km.

The trail ends in Porto da Cruz, about three hours on foot from Machico. If the car stays in Machico, the way back is a taxi.

Best: a dry, clear day, starting in the morning.

Avoid: rain, the days just after it, and strong wind.

Wet rock on an exposed cliff path turns slippery, rain loosens stones on the slopes above, and a morning start leaves time for the full walk and the ride back from Porto da Cruz.