Levada Fajã do Rodrigues (PR 16)

The last tunnel runs for about a kilometre in total darkness. You stoop along a slick concrete rim in single file, the water channel at your feet and the roof dripping, for 15 to 30 minutes. Then the walls open onto the gorge of Ribeira do Inferno, deep, steep and thick with green, where the levada takes its water.

Everything before it is gentle going. The path barely changes height, while waterfalls come close enough to soak you and fish move in the channel. Exotic forest leads into dense Laurissilva, and at some points the view opens across the São Vicente valley. The start is busy, but after the first couple of waterfalls only a few walkers remain.

From the car park, a steep hill of around 30% climbs 200 m to the start of the trail at Ginjas. It is the only real climb of the day.

At Ginjas the path joins the levada's walkway and stays almost level, through exotic forest that leads into dense Laurissilva. The first waterfalls come along this stretch, close enough to soak you.

Past them, the path follows a steep cliff with no handrail in places and crosses a slippery rocky slope. At some points the view opens across the São Vicente valley.

In the first two tunnels the walkway either side of the water is 15 to 30 cm wide, a boot's length at best. The second is roughly halfway, and you can turn back there.

Further on, a waterfall stands in front of the last tunnel: about a kilometre, unlit and single file. It comes out in the gorge of Ribeira do Inferno, where the trail ends. Return the same way, tunnel included.

• Light: the tunnels have no lighting. Bring a headlamp, which keeps both hands free, and a charged phone as backup.
• Getting wet: waterfalls can soak you and the tunnels drip, so pack a rain shell or poncho. Most of the path is shaded and cool.
• Headroom: tunnel roofs are low and the walkway is narrow, so tall or broad walkers move slowly and may struggle.
• Supplies: no toilets or drinking water at the start, and none nearby. Fill up before you come.
• Status: check the IFCN trails page before you book; it shows whether each PR is open or closed.

Ginjas sits above São Vicente. Two free car parks lie about 150 m and 290 m away, with free street parking as well; expect dirt and grass underfoot. Whichever you use, the last 200 m to the start climb a steep hill, so leave time for it before your entry slot.

The nearest bus stop is Ginjas, about 600 m away in a straight line. Check the return times against a walk of 3 to 3.5 hours before you book.

The trail ends at Ribeira do Inferno and comes back the same way, so you finish where you started and need no second car or transfer.

Best: the first hour of the morning, above all if you mean to walk the last tunnel. It is single file, and the crossing goes quickest with nobody blocking the path.

Avoid: heavy rain and the time just after it. The rock is already slippery, the waterfalls run harder, and the ravine walls can shed stones.

Most of the path is shaded and cool, so a hot day suits it. Rain does not earn a refund, so look at the forecast before you pay.

Levada Fajã do Rodrigues is a classified walking trail managed by IFCN, and entry runs on timed slots booked only online through the SIMplifica Portal; bookings and fees are not handled at IFCN premises. Everyone registers, including those who walk free. A slot closes automatically once it is full, and the tolerance for entering outside your slot is around 15 minutes.

Madeira residents walk free on showing their resident card and citizen card. Children aged 12 or under are exempt, as are people with a disability of 60% or more, with documentary proof, and one legal guardian accompanying each of them.

A paid booking is moved or refunded only when the authorities or IFCN officially close or restrict the trail on that date. Rain, a wrong date or a change of plan loses the money. Booking several trails applies the cheapest daily or multi-day rate automatically, and each trail still needs its own booking.