Cruz de Tejeda

Step out of the car and the island falls away to the west. The Caldera de Tejeda spreads below the terrace, 28 km by 18 km of ridges, crests and lone rock towers. Roque Bentayga stands up from the basin floor; Roque Nublo sits on the skyline. On a clear day the cone of Teide shows above the far rim, across the sea on Tenerife.

Miguel de Unamuno called this landscape a "petrified storm", and the jagged walls still earn the phrase.

The pass is also a crossroads. Mountain roads wind up to it from every side, past a string of photo stops, and the road towards Artenara is the pick of them. Walking trails leave from the pass itself, and a map board by the terrace lays out the island's routes. The Cafetería Mirador sits right on the viewpoint, so the view comes with the coffee.

• Coaches and motorbike groups are already in the car park by half past ten on a winter morning; come earlier for a quieter terrace.
• The air at the pass is chilly on winter mornings. Bring a warm layer even when the coast is hot.
• When cloud sits on the summit, the caldera view disappears and there is little to do here but wait. Check the sky before driving up.
• Toilets and a tourist office are within about 60 m of the viewpoint, along with a café.
• The drive up winds through the hills with photo stops along the way; allow time for them.

Most visitors drive. Every road up to the pass winds through the hills, through more greenery than the coast would suggest, with photo stops along the way; if you have a choice, take the road from Artenara.

At the top, the main car park sits about 30 m from the viewpoint, and there is more parking along the road. A second car park, about 100 m away, is for customers only. Buses stop at Cruz de Tejeda, about 80 m from the terrace.

Once parked, the viewpoint, the stone cross, the toilets, the café and the tourist office all lie within about 100 m of each other. There is no approach walk to speak of.

Best: early morning or late afternoon on a clear day.

Avoid: cloudy days, and late morning when the coach tours have arrived.

The caldera opens to the west, so morning sun lights it from behind the terrace and evening sun sets Roque Bentayga and the far rim against the sky, while cloud on the summit hides the whole view and by half past ten on a winter morning the car park already holds coaches and motorbikes.