Monte Palace Tropical Garden

The garden drops down the hillside on level after level, and the walk works its way through all of them. Lakes sit at the centre, with swans and koi carp under the surface and hidden paths running round the edges. There is a Japanese garden, tile panels set into the walls, African stone sculptures, waterfalls and ponds, and replicas of the thatched cottages built at Santana. Flamingos and peacocks wander the grounds. Two museums stand inside the gates, one of art and one of minerals and quartz. Shade covers most of the route, so a warm day stays workable, and there are cafés and bars along the way for water, a coffee or a cocktail. Through the gaps in the planting, Funchal Bay opens up below.

• Steps and slopes. The garden is built on many levels, with long flights of steps and steep paths. Hard going for anyone unsteady on their feet.
• Allow two to three hours. That is what covering the whole garden takes, and the gates close at 19:00.
• Entry is charged, and it is not cheap. The ticket includes a wine tasting.
• No advantage in booking ahead. Advance tickets join the same entrance queue as everyone else.
• Toilets and cafés. Both inside the grounds, with free public toilets a few steps from the entrance.

The cable car up from Funchal to Monte is the usual approach, and taxis and Bolt cars run the same route. Buses stop within about 130 metres of the entrance. Coming by car, the free asphalt car park at the Monte cemetery (Estacionamento do Cemitério do Monte) lies about 80 metres away. Whichever way you arrive, the climbing starts once you are through the gate: the garden itself is all steps and slopes.

Better: the first hours after the 9:00 opening.

Avoid: turning up close to 19:00.

Walking the garden properly takes two to three hours and the gates shut at 19:00, so a late arrival means rushing the far corners. Shade lies over most of the paths, which keeps a hot afternoon bearable — the effort here comes from the steps, not from the sun.