Nuestra Senora de Africa Market

Head down to the lower level first. The fish stalls there serve the day's catch at the counter, raw or grilled or steamed, with a glass of wine, and what ends up on the plate depends on what came in that morning.

Upstairs the market spreads through halls and open courtyards: stacks of fruit and vegetables in every colour, butchers, dairy stalls, bakeries, sandwich bars and counters carving Serrano ham. Between the food sit stalls of handmade jewellery, bags and hats, plus a supermarket and a children's playground. The building dates from the early 1940s and is still where Santa Cruz does its daily shopping, so the aisles carry as many shopping trolleys as cameras.

• The market closes in the early afternoon; for lunch at the fish counters, arrive well before then.
• What the fish counters cook depends on the day's catch, so walk the lower level before choosing.
• Cards and contactless payment are accepted.
• The market has its own toilets, and free public toilets stand about 55 m away.

The market stands in the centre of Santa Cruz, beside the Barranco de Santos ravine. Two bus stops, Mercado Nuestra Señora de África and Tea, lie about 60 m away, so the bus leaves you almost at the door.

Driving in, you can leave the car in the car park directly beneath the market; two more paid car parks sit within about 45 m. The entrance is step-free.

Best: a weekday morning, not long after opening.

Avoid: the afternoon, and weekend mornings if you want room to move.

The market trades only in the morning and early afternoon, and weekends are its busiest days, so a weekday morning gives full stalls and space at the counters.