Levada do Barreiro (PR 4)

The walk starts at an igloo-shaped ice house dating from 1813, once used to store the snow and hail that fell occasionally on these mountains and keep Funchal supplied with ice. From there the levada runs on as a narrow stone channel, like a gutter, until its water races downhill in a levada waterfall.

The views carry the rest: the Ribeira de Santa Luzia valley, Funchal beyond it, and the air full of the smell of plants. The landscape is much altered, with broom and acacia spread where native forest once stood. Crowds stay away.

At Poço da Neve, on the ER 202 towards Pico do Areeiro, the official route starts at the ice house and loses height from here, between 1650 m and 975 m.

Along the levada the path runs through tree heath and mountain grapevines, then opens onto the Ribeira de Santa Luzia valley and Funchal. Stop at the Barreiro viewpoint.

At the Ecological Park reception, a second way in, a map and signs are there even when it is shut. Pink signs lead to a point where you carry on to Casa do Barreiro or go back. A third way in leaves the road at the "Casa do Barreiro" sign: a smaller channel runs into the larger one, and further along the water races downhill.

At Casa do Barreiro you turn back or take the very steep road to Monte.

Heading uphill instead, PR 4 stops short of Pico do Areeiro. The last stretch follows PR 3 to the top, where you cross to PR 1. PR 3 also combines with PR 4 for a loop to the Ecological Park.

• The route runs one way. Decide before you set off whether to walk back along the levada or go on to Monte for a bus.
• The road from Casa do Barreiro to Monte is very steep, and it comes at the end of the walk.
• There are no toilets or drinking water by the levada, so bring your water. Public toilets stand at the botanical garden at Monte.
• Sundays are thinner: buses run less often, and neither the Ecological Park reception nor Casa do Barreiro can be counted on to open.

The official start, Poço da Neve, is on the ER 202, the regional road that leads to Pico do Areeiro. Two car parks lie near the route, about 460 m and 870 m away in a straight line; with a car, plan to walk back along the levada.

Bus 56 from Funchal stops at the Ecological Park, and the Ribeira das Cales stop is about 3.5 km away in a straight line. From Casa do Barreiro you can continue on foot by the very steep road to Monte and take a bus back to Funchal from the botanical garden. Buses run less often on Sundays than on weekdays, which leaves less room for a late finish.

Best: a clear day, and a weekday if you are coming by bus.

Avoid: low cloud if the views are the point, and winter days with snow or hail forecast on the high ground.

The views over the Ribeira de Santa Luzia valley and Funchal need clear air, weekday buses run more often than Sunday ones, and the ice house stands where it does because snow and hail fall occasionally on these mountains. Rain alone is no reason to cancel: the path stays wide enough and walkable, and wet weather empties it.