Pico do Arieiro Peak

On many days the cloud sits below the summit, and the ridges of the interior come out of a white floor. The viewpoint is right by the car park, which is unusual at this height. On a clear day Porto Santo is visible 48 km to the north-east. Next to the restaurant and the souvenir shop stands an air defence radar station of the Portuguese Air Force, built at the top in 2011; its dome is the landmark of the summit area. The ridge walk to Pico Ruivo, the highest point on the island, also starts here, and at busy times a steady line of walkers heads out along it.

• Water — there is no drinking water at the summit. Carry your own, and count on the toilets by the car park being charged.
• Weather — drizzle and fog are common up here, and the view can be gone all day. Bring a jacket even in August.
• Fire damage — part of the route on towards Pico Ruivo has been closed after a fire. Check the state of the trail before you book a slot.
• Footwear — some sections are slippery, so wear shoes with grip. On the way back from the trail you are walking uphill.

The road from Funchal runs all the way to the summit, so the last stretch is driven rather than walked. It ends at the car parks below the peak, and the viewpoints are a walk of well under a hundred metres from the tarmac. The trail towards Pico Ruivo also starts here: first a long staircase, then metal gates about twenty minutes in, where tickets are checked. When the road to the top car park is blocked, drivers stop at the lower car park and walk up the road.

Better: early morning, before the car parks fill and before the trail gates open at 8:30.

Avoid: the middle of the day in high season, when cars stand along the road — at peak times up to 1,000 people a day pass through the summit area.

The reason to go early is not only parking. The peak collects drizzle and fog, and cloud can sit on it from morning to evening, so a spare morning in reserve is worth more here than any other plan.