Betancuria Rural Park

The road through the massif folds round one bend after another, and the hills change colour as it goes: rust, cream and dull green over smooth-backed ridges, split by U-shaped ravines with palms and tamarisks in their beds. For a dry, low island the summits stand tall — Morro Velosa at 669 m, Gran Montaña at 708 m, Morro Jana at 764 m.

The rock underneath is some of the most striking exposed Basal Complex on Fuerteventura, and at Ajuy old ocean sediments hold fossils of marine animals long gone. Raptors work the ridges, the Canarian Egyptian vulture among them, while the Las Peñitas reservoir (Presa de Las Peñitas) has moorhens and coots nesting. Lime kilns, corrals, waterwheels and walled gavia fields record centuries of farming in a near-rainless land. On the trails, Barbary ground squirrels come right up to walkers and stand on their hind legs to look.

• The slopes are bare and the sun is fierce; bring water, a hat and sun cream even for a short stop.
• The roads are winding mountain roads. Allow more time than the map suggests and take the bends slowly.
• Betancuria village sits inside the park and makes the natural base for the drive and for walks.
• Dogs are allowed in the park.
• Camping is banned everywhere in the park, so plan to sleep in a village or town.

The park is mostly seen from the car: paved roads wind across the massif, and motor vehicles may only use the asphalt. Betancuria village is the obvious place to stop. The bus stop named Betancuria is about 2 km away, and a public car park lies about 1.9 km away; Finca Pepe's car park, at about 400 m, is for its customers only. From there, the walking is on the existing paths and tracks that lead up onto the hills.

Best: early morning or late afternoon, from autumn to spring. Avoid: the middle of a summer day.

The hills give almost no shade, so the heat builds fast on the slopes, while a low sun brings out the ochre and rust of the ridges.

Betancuria Rural Park is protected land, and its management plan sets the rules.

• Driving: motor vehicles only on paved roads; off-road driving is prohibited.
• Walking: independently or in small groups, on existing paths, trails and tracks.
• Camping: prohibited throughout the park.
• Heritage: do not damage, move or take anything from the lime kilns, corrals, walls and other old structures, and do not write, carve or paint on rocks or trees.
• Nature: no releasing animals or plants, no burning, no dumping of rubbish, and no chasing or catching wildlife.
• Needs authorisation: cycling on unpaved tracks, rod fishing and shellfish gathering from the shore, and organised commercial hikes.