San Marcos Beach

Out at the mouth of the bay, big Atlantic waves slam into the cliffs and throw up white water. Inside, the sea lies quiet enough to swim. That contrast is the reason to come.

The sand is black and mixed with black stones, and it runs down into water with rocks on the bottom. Behind the beach, the restaurants face straight out to sea and put the catch of the day on the menu, so a swim and a fish lunch share the same stretch of seafront. Stay for sunset, when the low light catches the spray off the cliffs.

• Rocks lie on the seabed beyond the sand; water shoes make getting in easier.
• Free toilets and showers stand by the beach.
• There is no drinking fountain nearby. Buy water at the seafront restaurants or the nearby supermarket.
• Ramps run along the seafront, and the parking, entrance and toilets are wheelchair-accessible.
• Black sand heats up fast in strong sun, so bring sandals for the walk to the water.

The bus drops you at the edge of the beach: the Playa San Marcos stop is about 36 m away, and the La Barriada stop about 180 m. Drivers have a free asphalt car park about 100 m from the beach, with paid parking as a second option. From the bus stop or the car park, you walk along the seafront promenade straight onto the sand.

Best: late afternoon into sunset.

Avoid: summer weekends.

The evening light over the sea and the waves on the cliffs make sunset the finest hour here, while at weekends people from the surrounding towns come down and the beach fills. In winter the north coast takes heavier swell, so on rough days watch the waves from the promenade.