Cavaca Trail

The Cavaca Trail is a climb, not a stroll. It starts near Seixal on Madeira's north coast and works its way up to Fanal, and almost the whole ascent is steps — cut in rock, laid in wood, dug into packed earth. Water is never far off: streams cross the route and there are waterfalls beside it. The top point opens out to a view, and Fanal is worth the effort in its own right, a plateau of laurel forest where old til trees stand in open pasture.

The middle is repetitive, though. Gully, steps, gully, steps, with the scenery changing little until near the end.

• It is steps, not path. Rock, wood and earth stairs make up most of the ascent, and the same on the way down.
• Parking is not at the trailhead. There is a stretch of road to walk before the climb begins.
• No toilets and no information point. Nothing of the kind stands near the trail, so sort that out beforehand.
• Not everyone finishes. The gradient is relentless, and turning back partway is a normal outcome here.

Almost everyone arrives by car. Parking is not at the trailhead, so the final approach is on foot along the road. A bus stop lies within walking distance as well, with the same last stretch to cover. From the start the route goes straight up: steps in rock, then wood, then packed earth, climbing towards Fanal. It is walked out and back on the same line, so everything you carry up comes back down with you.

Better: a clear, dry day.

Avoid: walking it in rain.

The point of the climb is the view from the top and the laurel forest at Fanal, and low cloud takes away both. Rain also makes rock and wooden steps slick, and that matters more on the way down than on the way up.