Galtahryggjarlaug Geothermal Pool

A small natural hot pot, and one of the oldest in Iceland. A bishop blessed it in the 12th century, and the water has been credited with healing properties since. The pot sits among the fjords, the water is hot, and it steams. A changing room stands up the hill beside it.

The pool is neither wild nor public. It belongs to the Heydalur country hotel, and visitors who are not staying there pay at the reception. The fee opens the rest of Heydalur's bathing as well: two more hot pots outside the greenhouse, one hot pot inside it, and a large swimming pool inside the greenhouse, along with showers, toilets and changing rooms.

• Not a wild pool — Galtahryggjarlaug belongs to the Heydalur country hotel, and visitors who are not staying there pay at the reception.
• Wet feet — the way in crosses a river with no bridge, and the river carries a lot of water.
• Free for guests — anyone staying at the Heydalur hotel or campsite bathes at no extra charge.
• The fee covers more — Heydalur's other hot pots, the indoor pool, showers, toilets and changing rooms.
• Changing room — a small one stands up the hill beside the pot.

Drive in and park next to the restaurant at Heydalur or on the campsite. From there it is about a five-minute walk to the pool. The route crosses a river with no bridge, and the river carries a lot of water: it is passable on foot, but you will end up with wet feet. Pay at the Heydalur reception before you walk up.

Best: summer and early autumn. The side-road is easy then, the river is usually low enough to wade without trouble, and the Heydalur reception is open to take the fee.

Avoid: the days after heavy rain or snowmelt, when the river runs high, and deep winter, when the side-road can be hard going. Pair the soak with a meal or a night at Heydalur.