Pináculo & Folhadal (PR 17)

Two tunnels take ten and twenty minutes to walk through by head torch, the first tight and cold, the second liable to flood. Waterfalls come down across the path as well, and you end up wet whichever way you cross them.

The levada itself is wide, with fish in the water and open views, and it stays far quieter than the better-known PR 9. Laurissilva forest lines stretches of the route, and the municipal path, a section of old public way paved in stone, takes you away from the water.

The steps up to the Pináculo area are the price of the view. At the top of the trail the Ribeira Brava valley opens below you, with Pico Ruivo and Pico do Areeiro behind it. Fog takes all of that away, and the levada below turns strange and quiet.

The official line joins Lombo do Mouro, beside the ER 105, with Encumeada. Its passable stretch runs Encumeada, Folhadal, Caramujo, Bica da Cana, so set out from Encumeada.

At Encumeada, find the PR 17 map board and guidepost and follow the Levada do Norte along its terrace. The going is easy and close to level, with open views. About an hour and a half brings you to the mouth of a very long tunnel: turn back here for a shorter walk.

In the tunnels you need a head torch. The first is tight and cold, and the second can flood. Tunnels and waterfalls keep coming until the Folhadal area.

Past the tunnels the climbing starts. The path leaves the levada at points for stone paving, and long flights of steps lead to the Pináculo area, the top of the trail.

From the ridge, walking back the way you came is the simple return. Back at Encumeada, the Vereda da Encumeada (PR 1.3) leads on to Pico Ruivo.

• Check the status first. Part of the line has been closed, and Lombo do Mouro is not on the passable stretch; IFCN's trail page shows the latest.
• Take a head torch each. The two tunnels take ten and twenty minutes to walk through.
• Expect wet feet. The second tunnel can hold water, and water shoes deal with it well; the waterfalls soak you anyway.
• The nearest toilets are about 680 m away in a straight line, so plan for that before you set off.
• Steps split the walk. Up to the steps the going is easy; the steps are the hardest part, and turning back at their foot still gives you the levada.

Arrive at Encumeada by car or by a Bolt ride from Funchal. The walking starts where you get out: the PR 17 map board, a free car park and the Boca da Encumeada bus stop stand close together. A second car park nearby is for customers only.

The bus sets the end of your day. There is a single departure back to Funchal, from the stop across from the café by the stairs, so check the timetable before you set out and be back in time for it.

Walked end to end, the line does not bring you back to your start, so arrange the ride home before you set off.

Best: a clear day, when the Pináculo area looks out over the Ribeira Brava valley to Pico Ruivo and Pico do Areeiro.

Avoid: the climb to the viewpoint under low cloud, because the hardest part of the walk then ends in a view of fog.

On a grey day the levada still earns the trip, since fog suits its stretches of forest, and you can turn back at the foot of the steps.

PR 17 is a classified walking trail managed by IFCN, crossing a preserved natural area, and entry runs on timed slots that spread walkers through the day. Every walker must register and book a slot on the SIMplifica Portal, including those who walk free; IFCN offices take neither bookings nor payment. Slots close automatically when full, and the tolerance either side of your slot is around 15 minutes.

Walking free, with booking still required: anyone aged 12 or under, residents of the Autonomous Region of Madeira with a resident card and citizen card, and people with a disability of 60% or more plus one accompanying legal guardian, with documentary proof.

The fee comes back or the slot moves only when the trail is officially closed or restricted on your date. Rain or a change of plan loses the fee. Several trails booked together get the cheaper combined rate automatically, and each trail still needs its own booking.