Vereda do Urzal (PR 2)

At Boca das Torrinhas the climb stops and the peaks around the Curral das Freiras valley fill the view. Take your time here, because everything after it runs downhill.

The other reason to come is the change of forest. The southern side is eucalyptus and other exotic trees. Past the pass the vegetation is nearly pristine: dense high-altitude plants and Laurissilva, the native forest on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The birdwatching is good on the way through.

Few people take this old path, so you have it to yourself most of the time. It looks neglected in places, overgrown and running with water after rain, and that comes with the solitude.

At Fajã dos Cardos, in Curral das Freiras, the path starts uphill at once through exotic vegetation, mainly eucalyptus, with views over the village. Above the forest, small waterfalls come across the path and the ground turns slippery.

At Boca das Torrinhas, the high point at 1450 m, a junction gives the link to PR 1.3 - Vereda da Encumeada, the way to Pico Ruivo. For Lombo do Urzal, stay on PR 2 down the far side. To return to Curral das Freiras instead, turn round here and go back the way you came.

On the far side the path runs downhill all the way, through dense high-altitude vegetation and Laurissilva forest. Parts of the trail are overgrown and hard to follow, so keep checking the line as you go.

At Lombo do Urzal, in the parish of Boaventura, the trail ends. The ride back to the start takes about an hour by car.

• One-way walk: it ends at Lombo do Urzal, an hour's drive from the start, so plan the return before you book.
• Path condition: parts are overgrown and hard to follow, so download the route to your phone before you set out.
• No signal: part of the route has no mobile coverage, so tell someone your plan before you enter.
• Supplies: there are no toilets or drinking water near the start, so fill your bottles before you come.
• Footwear: wear hiking boots, because wet stretches turn slippery, on the descent above all.

The walk begins at Fajã dos Cardos in Curral das Freiras and ends at Lombo do Urzal in the parish of Boaventura, so a car left at the start is a problem at the finish.

The nearest bus stops, Pico Furão 3A and 4A, are about 130 m away in a straight line, with a guidepost close by. The nearest parking is about 820 m away in a straight line, and the next about 2.1 km.

From Lombo do Urzal, a Bolt back to the start means about half an hour's wait for the pickup and an hour's drive, and the fare gets expensive. Arriving by bus leaves you no car to fetch.

Best: A dry, clear day on an early entry slot. The view from Boca das Torrinhas needs open sky, cloud builds on high ground as the day warms, and the ride back from the far end adds to the walking time.

Avoid: Heavy rain. Waterfalls big and small then run across the path, you walk through them, and the descent turns slippery.

Vereda do Urzal is a classified walking trail managed by IFCN, and entry runs on booked time slots. Every walker must register and book a slot online through the SIMplifica Portal. Children 12 and under, Madeira residents with proof of status and people with a disability of 60% or more, plus one accompanying guardian, pay nothing but still book. A slot closes automatically once it is full, and the tolerance around your slot is about 15 minutes. Booking several trails applies a cheaper combined rate automatically.

Rescheduling or a refund is given only when the authorities officially close or restrict the trail on your booking date. A change of plans or a rainy day loses you the money. The status of each trail is listed on the official IFCN trails page, so check it before you go.