Eldfell Volcano

The cone did not exist before 01:55 on 23 January 1973. A fissure opened on the eastern side of Heimaey, barely a kilometre from the town centre, and within two days lava fountains had piled up a cinder cone over 100 metres high. It stood 200 metres by the time the fountaining stopped on 19 February.

The eruption destroyed around 400 homes and forced out all 5,300 islanders. Most were carried to the mainland by the fishing fleet within six hours. Lava then advanced on the harbour mouth, the island's living. Crews sprayed seawater onto the flow front from February to July 1973 — 7.3 million cubic metres in all — and the flow stopped short.

Afterwards the island used what had buried it. Heat from the cooling lava supplied hot water and up to 40 megawatts of power. Tephra went into a longer airport runway and into the ground under 200 new houses.

• Footing: the cone is steep and covered in loose volcanic gravel. Wear boots with grip; it slides underfoot, more on the way down than up.
• Wind: the summit is exposed and the weather changes fast. On a rough day the top is not worth attempting.
• No cover: the hill is bare. Grass has been planted on the lower slopes only, to hold the tephra against erosion.
• Eldheimar: the museum at the foot of the cone covers the 1973 eruption, and the climb reads differently after it.

Eldfell stands at the eastern edge of the town of Vestmannaeyjar, on Heimaey. The 1973 fissure opened barely a kilometre from the town centre, and the cone grew where it stood. The way up starts behind the Eldheimar museum, at the foot of the slope. From there it is all on foot: a steep climb over loose volcanic gravel to the crater rim.

Better: a clear day.

Avoid: low cloud and rough weather.

The reason to climb Eldfell is the view over Heimaey and the water around it. In poor visibility there is nothing at the top but grey gravel. The weather here changes fast, so check it before starting up, not the evening before.