Hvannagil is a canyon in the hills inland from Stafafell in East Iceland. The rock is rhyolite rather than basalt, so the walls and the stones in the river bed run through red, ochre and grey. A rough F road leads in from the main road, and a walk of two to three hours out and back starts from the car park at the end of Grænahlíð. There is nothing here but the valley itself: no toilets, no kiosk and, most days, almost no one else.
Hvannagil Canyon
Local name: Hvannagil
The rock runs red, ochre and grey, nothing like the black basalt that covers most of Iceland.
- Entrance
- Free
- Accessibility
- No wheelchair-accessible parking or entrance.
- Parking
- Free car park at the end of Grænahlíð.
- Difficulty
- Rough F-road drive in, then two to three hours out and back on a jeep track. Side paths are steep and on loose ground.
- Transport
- Self-drive to Stafafell (Ring Road); 4x4 for inner tracks
- Hours
- Open around the clock.
- Address
- 781 Stafafell (Lón)
What makes it special
Most of Iceland is black basalt. Hvannagil is not. The valley walls and the stones in the river bed run through red, ochre and grey, and one stretch of the ground is red sand. A canyon known as the troll canyon opens to the right of the parking area, and a valley called the golden valley runs off to the left along the river bed. Narrow tracks worn by sheep leave the main route and end at overlooks above the wider valley.
Colour is the point here, and it depends on the light. Under heavy cloud the valley reads flat and grey, and the rock gives back very little.
Good to know
- No facilities: there are no toilets at the site and no kiosk anywhere on the route. Carry your own food and water.
- Wind: wind funnels down the canyon. Windproof layers and sturdy footwear are worth having even in fair weather.
- Route-finding: some trails are hard to find, and the path shown on hiking apps is largely a jeep track.
- Driving in: an F road runs to the end of the track. Continuing up the river bed beyond it needs a proper 4x4.
- River crossing: from the parking spot near the river, the walk begins by crossing a shallow, pebbly stream.
Getting there
Access is by car. The track in from the main road is rough and slow, around 25 minutes of driving, and it is an F road. There is a car park at the end of Grænahlíð, and the walking starts straight from it. Drivers who park nearer the river cross a shallow, pebbly stream on foot before entering the valley. A longer alternative is to leave the car by Route 1 at Stafafellskirkja and walk over the mountain into Hvannagil, returning along Grænahlíð. Going further up the river bed by car needs a proper 4x4.
Best time to visit
Better: a clear, bright day. Direct light is what pulls the red and ochre out of the rock, and the colour is the reason to make the drive.
Avoid: overcast, gloomy weather. The valley flattens to grey under cloud and gives back very little for the effort of getting there.
Crowds are not a problem. The rough approach keeps numbers down, and the valley is often empty.
Sun & daylight
Nearby Places
Similar Places
Hvannagil Canyon on the map
The side paths are steep and run on loose ground that slides underfoot. Wind funnels down the canyon. There is no shelter, no kiosk and no toilet on the route, so carry food, water and windproof clothing, and turn back rather than commit to a loose slope you cannot reverse.
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Frequently asked questions
Do you need a 4x4 to reach Hvannagil?
The approach is an F road, rough and slow. To carry on past the end of the track and up the river bed, a proper 4x4 is needed.How long is the walk?
From the car park at the end of Grænahlíð, an out-and-back walk on the jeep track takes two to three hours. The circuit through Smiðjunes is a longer option, and the route over the mountain from Stafafellskirkja is longer again.Are there toilets or anywhere to buy food?
No. There are no toilets at the site and no kiosk on the route. Bring food and water with you.Is the route marked?
Not clearly. Some trails are hard to find, the way on from the parking area is not obvious, and the path shown on hiking apps turns out to be mostly a jeep track.What should you bring?
Windproof layers, sturdy footwear, and enough food and water for the whole walk. Wind funnels down the canyon, and there is nowhere to restock.