Kaldbakur Mountain

Kaldbakur is the highest mountain in the Westfjords, and it falls two metres short of a round thousand: 998 m. It sits on the ridge between Arnarfjörður and Dýrafjörður, so the summit looks down both fjords at once. This is a walking mountain, not a viewpoint you drive to. The route up starts at Kirkjuból farm and takes most of a day, which filters out the casual traffic — you can have the top to yourself. In clear weather the view is the whole point of coming. In low cloud there is nothing up there to see.

• A full day, not a stop: the walk up starts at Kirkjuból farm and takes most of a day. Plan nothing else around it.
• Cloud cancels it: the summit is climbed for the view. In low cloud there is nothing to see from the top.
• Carry everything up: water, food, a windproof layer and gloves go with you from the car.
• Few people: you can walk the whole route without meeting anyone, so tell someone where you are going.

The walk starts at Kirkjuból farm, and everything above the farm is on foot. Kaldbakur has no road to the summit. Set out early: the climb takes most of a day, and the descent is easier in good light. This is the day's outing, not a stop between two other sights.