Vereda da Encumeada (PR 1.3)

Walk west from the shelter below Pico Ruivo and the spine of Madeira opens ahead, all volcanic escarpment and heather. The same line also crosses green Laurisilva, so two Natura 2000 ecosystems share one walk. On a clear day the cloud lies below you. On a bad one you walk inside it, with the wind coming across the ridge.

Look out for the caves dug into the rock, Furna da Lapa da Cadela among them. The people who came up here to cut heather for firewood and charcoal sheltered in them.

At Casa de Abrigo do Pico Ruivo, the mountain shelter near the highest point of the archipelago, the trail sets off west along the central range. Caves dug into the rock, Furna da Lapa da Cadela among them, lie along the line; with its western part closed, do not count on reaching every one.

At Boca das Torrinhas the way ahead is officially closed. Look for PR 2 Vereda do Urzal here, which carries on towards Curral das Freiras or Boaventura, or turn back to Pico Ruivo, where PR 1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo descends to Achada do Teixeira.

Past Boca das Torrinhas, on the closed section, the line runs on to Encumeada, with a wide view over the centre of the island near its end. Stay off it until the IFCN page shows it open.

• Part closed: Boca das Torrinhas to Encumeada is officially closed. Check the trail status on the IFCN page before you book.
• Bookings add up: every trail on your day needs its own booking, PR 1.2 included if you walk in that way.
• No weather refunds: a refund or new date comes only when the trail is officially closed or restricted on your booking date. Rain does not count.
• Water and toilets: there is no drinking water nearby, so fill up before you set out. The toilets near Pico Ruivo charge a fee.
• Wind: the high ground gets windy, so always carry a windproof jacket.

Casa de Abrigo do Pico Ruivo is reached on foot. Drive to the car park at Achada do Teixeira, about 2.2 km away in a straight line, and walk up PR 1.2 Vereda do Pico Ruivo to the shelter; the path covers more ground than that line. PR 1 Vereda do Areeiro also reaches Pico Ruivo, running one way towards the peak from Pedra Rija Viewpoint, so it gives no way back to Pico do Areeiro.

Public transport gets no nearer than the stops at Pico Furão, about 2.6 km away in a straight line.

The walk does not loop. Turn back at Boca das Torrinhas and PR 1.2 returns you to Achada do Teixeira. Continue on PR 2 and you head towards Curral das Freiras or Boaventura, away from your car, and the ride back is yours to arrange before you set off.

Best: a dry, settled day with an early entry slot.

Avoid: rain, strong wind and, in winter, frost on the high ground.

Wet volcanic rock turns slippery, and cloud gathering on the high ground can take away both the views and the path ahead.

Vereda da Encumeada is a classified trail managed by IFCN, and entry is by timed slot. Everyone books and registers online on the SIMplifica Portal, including those who walk free; neither bookings nor fees are handled at IFCN premises. A slot that reaches capacity blocks automatically, and the tolerance around your entry time is about 15 minutes, a little more if you are walking trails in sequence.

Select all your trails in one booking and the portal applies the cheapest fee combination by itself. A multi-day fee is no pass: each trail still needs a reservation.

Walking free: residents of Madeira with proof of status (resident card and citizen card), children aged 12 or under, and people with a disability of 60% or more, plus one accompanying legal guardian, with documentary proof.