Langisjor Camping

What earns the stop here is everything outside the site. Langisjor Camping stands in a volcanic ash desert of dark sand and grit, and the views over it are the reason people put up with the rest. It is a calm place: no bar, no shop, no services of any kind. The walk up the hill opposite the campsite is the thing to do, and from the top the whole basin is laid out below. An information hut with a ranger sits on the site, and the ranger there is helpful about the area — though you may arrive to find nobody at all.

• Cash only. There is no card payment. You pay into an envelope on site, so bring notes and small change.
• No showers and no hot water. Washing means a single sink standing out in the open in the middle of the site.
• The toilets have no light. Bring a head torch, even in summer when the nights stay bright.
• Tents take a beating. The ground is sand and volcanic ash, the site is dusty, and nights get cold.
• No services. Beyond the toilets and the information hut there is nothing on site.

The last stretch in is F235, a highland F-road. It calls for a proper four-wheel drive, and a pickup with a camper on the back handles it comfortably; the drive itself is one of the good parts of coming here. You drive onto the site, so there is nothing to carry in from a car park.