Northwest Iceland

Two to three days is a realistic stay. The region covers 12,737 square kilometres and holds about 7,300 people, so the distances between stops are long and the stops themselves are small. Sauðárkrókur, the largest town at 2,609 residents, is the practical base for a night or two. One day is enough only for Hvítserkur and a single valley on the way through. Allow an extra day in winter, when short daylight limits how far you can drive between dawn and dark.

A hire car is the practical way to see Northwest Iceland. About 7,300 people live across 12,737 square kilometres, so scheduled transport between the villages is thin and the gaps between fuel stops are long. Sauðárkrókur, the largest town, is the sensible place to base, refuel and shop. The roads out to the coast and up the valleys are slow, and a drive takes longer than the distance suggests. In winter, snow and wind close the smaller roads, sometimes for days at a time.

• Driving off marked roads and tracks is banned throughout Iceland, including on gravel, sand and moss. The tyre scars last decades and the fines are heavy.
• Camping outside marked campsites is restricted. Campervans and caravans belong on an organised site, and pitching on farmland needs the landowner's permission.
• Anything stronger than light beer is sold only in state-run shops. Supermarkets and petrol stations do not stock wine or spirits.