Skaftafell Glacier

The glacier ends in a lagoon, and the path runs along its edge. Above it the ice spills down from the Vatnajökull ice cap in blue and white, with black volcanic rock on either side. Two routes lead out to the tongue: one crosses open landscape, the other keeps close to the cliff wall. The open one holds the glacier out of sight until the last stretch. The ice reached its farthest point around 1890 and has been retreating ever since. On the ground it has given up, angelica, willow and birch are taking hold — plants that had no chance here while sheep still grazed the land.

• The walk in: roughly 3.5 km from the car park to the ice front. Not hard going, but not an easy stroll either.
• Footwear: past the end of the path there is mud and standing water by the lagoon. Sturdy shoes, not trainers.
• Weather: it changes fast. Strong wind and cold arrive even in summer, so carry waterproof layers.
• The car park fills at peak hours. Early in the day or later on is the easier arrival.
• Visitor centre: open all year, with maps, trail and tour information, toilets and a small café.

Most people drive in and leave the car at the Skaftafell visitor centre. From there the glacier front is roughly 3.5 km on foot. Two trails cover the distance: one runs through open landscape, the other closer to the cliff wall, and the left-hand path is the straighter of the two. The walking is not difficult, but it is not effortless either. The last stretch, past the end of the path by the lagoon, is mud and standing water.

Better: early in the day, or later in the day. Avoid: peak hours, when both the car park and the trail are at their busiest.

Arriving early buys the clearest look at the ice without the crowds. Skaftafell has a milder and sunnier climate than most of Iceland's south coast, sheltered by the bulk of Öræfajökull. In summer park rangers run guided walks and talks, and the campground is open from 1 May to 30 September.